I’m usually a liquid lipstick wearer, because I don’t have the patience and attention to detail necessary to eat more carefully, regularly check for smudging or transfer, and reapply when needed, all of which creamy bullet lipsticks require of their wearers. However, one of the many joys (deep sarcasm) the pandemic has bestowed upon me personally is that after 14 months of wearing FFP2 grade masks for 8 hours a day 5 days a week at work, my usually oily-combo skin is now dry and flaky in certain areas, and my lips, which typically only require lip balm overnight, now freak. the. fuck. out. when I wear long-lasting lipsticks. If I wear my Holy Grail lip product, the Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink liquid lipsticks for, say, a Saturday blog shoot for a few hours, my lips will now feel incredibly dry and perhaps chapped for several days afterwards, necessitating endless lip balm applications until they recover.
Since my skin is now high maintenance, I haven’t been thrilled by the notion of my lips becoming so too, and as such I’ve been eagerly awaiting the UK launch of Maybelline’s Ultimatte Color Sensational Slim lipsticks in the hopes they would give me the matte finish I crave in a lightweight but hydrating formula that my lips would be less mad about. Do they? Let’s take a look.
According to Maybelline, these Ultimatte lipsticks are ‘formulated with texture blurring gels for a smooth matte finish.’ A new Neo Neutrals shade range has recently launched in the US, but here in the UK we’ve only just got the release of (most of) the original shade range that the US got last spring. The original 10 colours were More Buff, More Taupe, More Truffle, More Blush, More Magenta, More Rust, More Mauve, More Scarlet, More Ruby, and More Berry. So far, I haven’t spotted Berry, Truffle or Magenta anywhere, so I suspect this is one of those occasions where the US gets a few more shades than we do here in the UK.
I ordered 4 shades utilising different offers available online from Boots and Superdrug as neither site had all colours available when they launched a couple weeks back. Now, both have all 7 shades that appear to be available, but below I’ll be showing you the 4 I picked up; More Buff, More Rust, More Scarlet and More Ruby.
Packaging: A slim bullet lipstick, the packaging has a matte finish with an ombre effect of black at the base fading out into the opaque colour of the lipstick shade. ‘Ultimatte’ is printed in silver capitals on the lid on one side, with Maybelline’s logo on the other also in silver. It’s a light plastic tube, which will slip easily into your bag or dress’s pocket. I think it looks a lot chicer than Maybelline’s Matte Ink lipsticks with their white plastic lids. The lipstick itself is slim and has a flat top, which I find much easier to apply than the traditional shape of bullet lipsticks.
Texture: A lightweight but highly pigmented matte formula, it applies with excellent opacity in a single swipe and sits comfortably. On the lips it feels light and soft, not as creamy as a standard cream or satin lipstick, but not as dry as a matte bullet lipstick, and lighter than both types. During wear I forgot about it to the extent that I would forget about a heavy lip balm–sort of aware it’s there, but not consciously focusing on it because it’s comfortable.
Wear: This isn’t a long-lasting formula, nor does it promise to be one, so it will transfer. As such, it did need reapplying after I ate, but from merely drinking by straw over the course of a couple hours it wasn’t too noticeable on my lips that I was losing product to the straw, even though the straw made it obvious that I was. The lipstick reapplies smoothly with no piling or rubbery feeling, so in reality topping up a few times throughout the day isn’t an issue if you’re already used to not wearing transfer-proof lipsticks. Below I’ve put a collage of how the lipstick looked after each thing I ate, without reapplying in between.
Please note that I have a sinus issue that means I have to blow my nose throughout the day, so some of the wear to the outline of the upper lip is a result of being accidentally touched by tissues and therefore isn’t a perfect reflection of how the lipstick would wear in that area for a person who doesn’t have to blow their nose regularly. The lipstick didn’t feather and wear away on my lower outer lip line, because it wasn’t being knocked or pressed against, so that’s a truer example of how it would wear for the average person around the lip line.
Applied at 9am, this is how the lipstick looked after each item I ate as detailed below, without reapplying at all:
1 – After drinking a small iced coffee by straw
2 – After eating a pack of crisps (bag of potato chips, for all you Americans reading)
3 – After eating a salad and onion rings, with a soda drunk through a straw
4 – After reapplying the lipstick for the first time following the salad
Unlike liquid lipsticks, because this formula is creamy I could rub my lips together after taking photos 1 and 2 and the product would redistribute slightly so that the centre no longer looked as worn away. Plus, I deliberately parted my lips so you could see exactly what product was lost, but holding my lips as they naturally sit closed it wasn’t obvious at all that the lipstick had worn away from the drinking and snacking. I deliberately chose some creamy and greasy items to eat to test this lipstick’s limits, and I ate as I normally would without being careful of the lipstick, so I think it’s pretty understandable it wore away so much during the full meal considering this lipstick doesn’t come with any long-lasting promises. It reapplied perfectly after the lunch photo was taken.
More Buff is a pale brown pink. The arm swatches above show the best out-of-the-tube representation of the shade as it is, but on me you can see it reads very pale and totally washes me out. More Blush would probably be a better shade for me as it’s more pink, but I ordered More Buff because it was the only remaining shade available at the time and was free in the deal I was ordering from, so it was worth it to swatch for you. It’s a good nude shade for many skin tones but would probably benefit from a warmer/darker lipliner smudged around the outer lips for most skin tones.
A true classic red, it isn’t as blue-toned as More Ruby. Similar in red tones to the Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink in ‘Dancer.’
A warm muted terracotta, this is probably my favourite shade among the shades I picked up because I love an autumn vibes lipstick. A great option for when you don’t want to go for a full red.
A rich blue-toned ruby red, it’s cooler and darker than More Scarlet.
Maybelline Comparisons: The Maybelline Super Stay Matte Inks are a thicker, tackier liquid lipstick formula, which last exceptionally well (up to 16 hrs) but do feel heavier on the lips, and can leave lips feeling dry after removing from a long day of wear. They require an oil or dual formula makeup remover to take them off, and also don’t have a completely matte finish, despite their name. The Matte Ink Crayons more lightweight and comfortable than the liquid lipsticks are, but the staying power is halved as a result. They might need reapplying during a full day’s wear, particularly after eating, but they can be removed with standard makeup removers. The Maybelline Super Stay 24hr lipsticks are a thin lightweight liquid lip formula that come with a balm topper that can be applied after the colour formula has dried down, providing a hydrated feeling throughout the day. The balm does create a semi-glossy finish, so they’re not matte, but they won’t budge or smudge and do last relatively well through eating and drinking. They can flake off slightly through consumption, but reapplication is easy enough. In comparison to these 3, the Ultimattes offer the light feel and comfort most like the 24hr lipsticks, and are lighter than the Crayons, but they don’t have the staying power of either of them, instead offering a more subtle-feel creaminess. They do last better than a bog standard bullet lipstick, but if longevity and transfer-proof wear is your top priority, as it typically is for me, these will probably disappoint you. If comfort is your main concern, these are a great option.
Overall rating: I really like these, I’d say they’re a 5/5 for what they are and what they offer, which is a lightweight matte formulation with good pigmentation. In pre-Covid times these wouldn’t have offered much use to me personally, as most of my social life revolved around eating a meal with friends or family, and ending up with lipstick smudged on my chin or teeth made bullet lipsticks a no-go for my vanity and patience. However, since my social life is still largely non-existent due to Covid precautions, and is usually masked or digital when there is the odd plan, wearing more hydrating lipsticks is definitely a more comfortable and sensible option to help keep my lips happy. For as long as I’m wearing a mask daily at work, I think I’ll be opting for these lipsticks for blog shoots and social occasions to avoid the dry lips rebound effect that liquid lipsticks are currently giving me. I do miss the 100% pigmentation punch that the Matte Ink liquid lips give, compared to that softer 90% look all other lipsticks offer, but that slight trade off is worth it for happier lips. I’d happily buy more colours and hope the missing 3 do come to the UK at some point because More Magenta is calling to me.
All in all, if you like bullet lipsticks and matte formulas, I’d recommend these.
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The semi-permanent makeup industry has enjoyed unprecedented growth over the last five years. The eyebrow tattoo is undoubtedly iconic, with many of our favourite celebrities sporting flawless brows 24/7. However, whilst microblading and micropigmentation (a.k.a, the signature Ombre Brow) may have put semi-permanent makeup on the map, eyebrows are not the only target for makeup permanency. In fact, semi-permanent lip blush has surged in popularity over the last few years and is fast becoming one of the most popular cosmetic procedures available today.
Lip blushing is a cosmetic tattoo designed to enhance the natural beauty of the lip area. Using coloured pigment, the lip blush technique aims to improve the shape of the lip, ultimately helping to create the illusion of fuller, more defined lips without the need for fillers.
However, for those with darker, hyper-pigmented lips, the lip blush technique is not always a viable option.
To create a pinker pout, dark lips must first undergo a process called ‘lip neutralisation’. Whilst lip blush requires injecting red/pink pigment into the lip area, often to make them darker, lip neutralisation involves lightening the area to achieve the same results.
In this blog, we are going to discuss what lip neutralisation is, the benefits of the procedure, how it differs from lip blush, and what to expect from the treatment.
Lip neutralisation is a specialised treatment for those with cool, or dark-toned, lips. It is a procedure often performed on clients with darker skin tones or those whose lips have darkened over time due to weather conditions, hyperpigmentation, or underlying medical issues.
It involves injecting neutralising ink pigments into the lip area to balance darker tones and enhance the natural lip colour, shape, and symmetry. The treatment creates a subtle, rather than saturated, effect to ensure natural-looking results. Whilst injectables (lip fillers) are great for adding permanent volume to the lip area, lip neutralisation is perfect for adding definition and fullness.
Lip neutralisation has many benefits for those who decide to take the plunge. Most obviously, it creates lighter, pinker-looking lips, meaning the amount of time spent applying lipstick, lipliner and lip-gloss to the area is significantly reduced.
The treatment can also boost pigmentation in dark or ageing lips, enhance lip symmetry and colour-correct scarring. It is also a brilliant technique for creating fuller-looking lips without the use of injectables or surgery.
As lip neutralisation can be a complex procedure, only to be performed by specialised technicians, the treatment is often broken down into 2-4 sessions. We have explored the details of each session below.
It is always important for a client to attend an initial consultation with their chosen practitioner. This allows both sides to truly understand what the client hopes to achieve from the treatment. It is also a chance for the practitioner to explain exactly how the process works, and what the client can expect by the end of the entire course.
During the first session, a neutralising pigment is injected into the area to correct the cool tones in the lips. Blue shades are neutralised using an orange-based pigment, and yellow ink is used to balance purple tones.
Unlike the lip blush technique, it may take 1-3 sessions of lip neutralisation to achieve the desired result. Each session is scheduled at least six weeks apart and the practitioner should adjust their technique to meet individual requirements.
Once the lips have been neutralised and made a few shades lighter, a client is then able to undergo a lip blush treatment if desired. This means that they can choose a specific colour to inject into the lip area to create a fuller, pinker-looking pout.
How to prepare for a lip neutralisation procedure.
Though lip neutralisation is a fairly low-risk procedure, there are some circumstances in which the treatment should be avoided. These include:
Before booking in for any semi-permanent makeup procedure, it is always a good idea to check in with your practitioner to assess any potential risks.
For optimal results, make sure you do the following prior to any procedure:
As with any permanent or semi-permanent procedure, a lip neutralisation treatment may cause infection or trigger an allergic reaction. Poor technique can also result in uneven application and unsatisfactory results. That is why it is so important to choose a licenced technician that only works with sterile equipment and has lots of experience.
Most side effects associated with lip neutralisation are mild. Most clients will experience some degree of swelling and increased redness. Some clients may suffer bruising around the area, although this is less common.
Following your lip neutralisation procedure, it is important to adhere to the instructions provided by your technician. During the first few days after your procedure, the lip area may experience a little discomfort and swelling. However, this should subside within a few days.
For the first four to eight hours following your procedure, you may want to apply an ice pack for ten to fifteen minutes at a time to reduce any swelling and discomfort.
If scabs begin to appear, do not pick, scratch, or rub the treated area. Certain balms or creams can be used to ease discomfort or irritation. However, always consult with your technician on the best options. Avoid using soap, cleansing products or makeup on the affected area for at least seven days following the treatment.
So that’s it! Absolutely everything you need to know about lip neutralisation.
Looking for a qualified lip blush technician? At Cosmedic Supplies, we are represented by some of the UK’s most talented semi-permanent makeup technicians. For lip blush and lip neutralisation, visit www.hushhbyharley.com (@hushhbyharley) or @kelly.permanentbeauty to book your initial consultation today.
Are you a technician looking to purchase the best lip neutralisation tools? Head over toAre you a technician looking to purchase the best lip neutralisation tools? Head over to www.cosmedic-supplies.co.uk to browse our extensive
range of semi-permanent makeup supplies.
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